Completed! The board didn't initially work because I had made some errors, and thus, there were some challenges:
- My initial layout had omitted the link from R3 to 15v. This was easy to fix by visual inspection
starting at the switch. Fixed with a new jumper and addressed in the layout. - I included the BS170 FET in my layout but had to substitute it with a 2N7000. You can substitute the BS170 with a 2N7000, but you must remember that the pinouts change. I had installed mine backwards. You can also omit this, but the module may "misbehave" if you cycle the gate before the DECAY cap has drained.
- I ran out of knobs. I think the cheapest plastic ones from Tayda are gross looking, so I tried to fabricate my own:
- On the left, I have some 3D printed knobs from Thingiverse. They worked OK but my filament color is horrendous for this task. So i kind of hate them, easy as they are to print.
- On the right, i made some knobs out of 5/8" dowel rod trimmed to half-inch length and drilled out. There is a tedious procedure one can do with a drill press to center the shaft hole, but my equipment was not compatible with it, and thus my shafts are off center. Still, they look OK and feel surprisingly good for being off-center.
- The blue LED in my build is noticeably brighter than the green LED in the OFF state. My DMM shows ~2.7 volts across the blue LED terminals, and only 1.4v on the green. I spent several hours reviewing the build looking for errors. I finally put it on the oscilloscope, and, comparing the outputs from both boards, the ADSR envelope is identical for a given setting. If there is an error in my build, it is benign. I also suspect the blue LED might simply be brighter than the green one, but that seems flimsy...
Here is the layout. If you build it, I'd appreciate it if you shared a photo of your build in the comments.
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